Even though this area is a savage wilderness, apart from crossing Masai herdsmen we only saw zebras. Running along the African Rift Valley, the track crosses Masai country, where plains and hills only amplify the grandeur of this landscape. It's about a five-hour drive from Lake Natron to reach the safari camps of the Serengeti's Loliondo area.The 'route', or track, that leads to Lake Natron is amazing and well worth the bumby ride in a dalla-dalla, truck or four-wheel drive (no luxury here!).

To finally reach Lake Natron, you drive around this imposing volcano – perhaps keeping your eyes on its smoking crown. These are soon dwarfed by the sight of Kerimasi Crater and, finally, the active Oldoinyo Lengai – whose name means “mountain of god' in the Maasai language. To the north of this track stands a handful of great mounds – the remains of extinct volcanoes. Only the occasional Maasai homestead now dots the landscape. Drive deeper, and green vegetation gives way to a sparse, dusty landscape.

You will soon focus on the scenery: looking around, the views are spectacular. It is hot but with the Rift Valley rising up on your left hand side, the landscape is increasingly dramatic. The drive to Lake Natron takes around three hours from Mto wa Mbu (beside Lake Manyara). It is also some of the most dramatic scenery we have seen in Tanzania and the journey here is worth it for the views alone. But for those who do choose to visit Natron, they are rewarded with an area that is far off the beaten track and sees relatively little tourism. This area is hot and often very dry and dusty – so certainly for the more intrepid traveller. This spectacular area sits just north east of the Ngorongoro Crater and forms part of Africa's immense Great Rift Valley.

Lago natron tanzania